Great Portrait Photos
Basic Tips for Avoiding "Boring" Portrait Photos
By Kyle Schurman , About.com Guide
If you think portrait photos have to be boring shots that all end up looking the same, you aren't really thinking about all of the possibilities. Using some imagination, you can try a lot of different angles and settings to make your portrait photos stand out from the crowd. Try these tips to make your portrait photos unique.
Try zooming in very close on the subject's face. By removing any distractions in the background, the image really becomes about the subject and his emotions in the photo.
Don't always shoot the person's head at the same vertical angle. Try having the subject tilt his head at a 30-degree angle or even a 45-degree angle to give the portrait photo a much more relaxed and less formal look. However, always try to keep the subject's eyes in the upper third of the frame in a close-up portrait photo. You don't want the subject to tilt her head so much that one of her eyes is in the lower half of the frame.
If you decided to "zoom out" a bit and shoot the portrait photo so that you can see the subject's entire body along with the background, consider keeping the background simple. Perhaps try a subtle nature scene that will not distract from the subject.
If you think the background is going to be a distraction in the portrait photo, consider using it to your advantage by having it "frame" the subject. For example, if you have a large window in the area, have the subject sit in front of the window, which makes the window appear as through it is "framing" the subject, drawing attention to the subject. You can make the photo appear less formal in this instance by not having the subject centered in the window that you're using as the "frame."
Make sure the subject's clothing color stands out from the background.
Consider using a small depth of field to blur a distracting background while keeping the subject in focus. A blurry object in the background with a sharp person's face in the foreground will make the subject appear to "pop" out of your photo. This technique tends to work best when zooming in close on the subject's face or upper body.
If you can't seem to eliminate the distracting objects in the background, try adjusting your angle of photography to hide those objects, moving left or right, or even up or down. With a new angle, you'll also give your portrait an interesting look.
Finally, look for an emotion from your subject. Rather than the standard "smile and say cheese," look to capture the subject laughing, crying, or showing another emotion.
MY THOUGHTS
I think coming out with great portrait photos is the most challenging of all.
Monday, May 30, 2011
Wednesday, May 18, 2011
iPhone 5
iPhone 5: All the Rumors About Apple's Next-Generation iPhone
By Liane Cassavoy, About.com Guide
Apple is expected to unveil the details of its next-generation iPhone -- the fifth version of the wildly-popular smartphone -- in the coming months. And new rumors about what the new iPhone might look like and the features it may have seem to pop up every day. Here's a roundup of the most popular theories about the highly-anticipated iPhone.
Name
The next-generation iPhone often has been referred to as the "iPhone 5," following in the steps of the iPhone 4. But the latest reports suggest that the device may actually be called the iPhone 4S. That name would make sense; Apple's third-generation iPhone was called the iPhone 3GS, after the second-generation iPhone had been named the iPhone 3G.
Launch Date
Apple typically launches a new iPhone each summer, but as of this writing (May 2011), the company does not seem prepared for a summer launch of the iPhone 5/4S. Most analysts expect the next iPhone to launch in the fall of 2011 instead of the summer, with some reports even suggesting it may not come until the end of the year.
Carriers
Now that Apple has ended its exclusive deal with AT&T and is offering the iPhone 4 on Verizon Wireless, the question is whether the iPhone will make its way to additional carriers. A research note from financial industry analyst Jefferies & Co. says that the new iPhone will be offered on Sprint and T-Mobile, too. That information is based on "industry checks," according to Jefferies & Co.
4G Support?
Maybe. While most industry insiders agree that support for Verizon's super-fast 4G LTE network is unlikely, the iPhone 5/4S may support HSPA+ networks. Currently offered by AT&T and T-Mobile, HSPA+ is an evolved form of current 3G networks, capable of delivering 4G speeds.
Camera
The camera on the iPhone 5/4S may get a significant boost in quality, some reports suggest. Rumors say that Apple's next iPhone may feature an 8-megapixel camera, powered by a Sony sensor. The current iPhone, the iPhone 4, features a 5-megapixel camera.
Screen
The Retina Display was one of the most-hyped features on the iPhone 4 when it launched in 2010. But new rumors suggest that Apple is looking at redesigning the display on the next-generation iPhone, as a purported mockup of the new phone shows a device with an edge-to-edge screen. That screen would feature the same 3:4 screen ratio currently used on the iPad, not the 2:3 screen ratio that the iPhone 4 features.
MY THOUGHTS
Let's see what happens when iPhone5 hits the market.
By Liane Cassavoy, About.com Guide
Apple is expected to unveil the details of its next-generation iPhone -- the fifth version of the wildly-popular smartphone -- in the coming months. And new rumors about what the new iPhone might look like and the features it may have seem to pop up every day. Here's a roundup of the most popular theories about the highly-anticipated iPhone.
Name
The next-generation iPhone often has been referred to as the "iPhone 5," following in the steps of the iPhone 4. But the latest reports suggest that the device may actually be called the iPhone 4S. That name would make sense; Apple's third-generation iPhone was called the iPhone 3GS, after the second-generation iPhone had been named the iPhone 3G.
Launch Date
Apple typically launches a new iPhone each summer, but as of this writing (May 2011), the company does not seem prepared for a summer launch of the iPhone 5/4S. Most analysts expect the next iPhone to launch in the fall of 2011 instead of the summer, with some reports even suggesting it may not come until the end of the year.
Carriers
Now that Apple has ended its exclusive deal with AT&T and is offering the iPhone 4 on Verizon Wireless, the question is whether the iPhone will make its way to additional carriers. A research note from financial industry analyst Jefferies & Co. says that the new iPhone will be offered on Sprint and T-Mobile, too. That information is based on "industry checks," according to Jefferies & Co.
4G Support?
Maybe. While most industry insiders agree that support for Verizon's super-fast 4G LTE network is unlikely, the iPhone 5/4S may support HSPA+ networks. Currently offered by AT&T and T-Mobile, HSPA+ is an evolved form of current 3G networks, capable of delivering 4G speeds.
Camera
The camera on the iPhone 5/4S may get a significant boost in quality, some reports suggest. Rumors say that Apple's next iPhone may feature an 8-megapixel camera, powered by a Sony sensor. The current iPhone, the iPhone 4, features a 5-megapixel camera.
Screen
The Retina Display was one of the most-hyped features on the iPhone 4 when it launched in 2010. But new rumors suggest that Apple is looking at redesigning the display on the next-generation iPhone, as a purported mockup of the new phone shows a device with an edge-to-edge screen. That screen would feature the same 3:4 screen ratio currently used on the iPad, not the 2:3 screen ratio that the iPhone 4 features.
MY THOUGHTS
Let's see what happens when iPhone5 hits the market.
Monday, May 9, 2011
FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
Flash Photography Tips
How to Get the Best Out of Your Flash
By Jo Plumridge, About.com Contributing Writer
Whether you're using a compact camera with a built in flash, a DSLR's integrated pop-up flash, or a dedicated speedlight on your DSLR camera, there are tips that you can use to make sure your flash photography is as good as it can be.
Remember, flash isn't always necessary! Learning about aperture, shutter speed, and ISO will enable you to take shots using natural light far more effectively.
Now read on for my top flash photography tips.
Recharging and batteries. Using a flash of any kind can really drain the batteries, so it's always a good idea to carry spares and to keep them fully charged. Different flashes take a different amount of time to recharge. This is called the recycle time. It's dependent on several factors -- such as, how good the batteries are and how much of the flash was discharged in the previous shot (for instance, if you are only shooting at a quarter power, the flash will recycle far more quickly). It's useful to know how quickly your flash recharges so that you'll know how quickly you can take another photograph.
Reflective surfaces. It sounds simple, but avoiding reflective surfaces when using flash can sometimes be a challenge! It needs to be done because, if you shoot the flash into anything reflective, you'll end up with a big blob of light on the image where the flash has reflected back to the camera. So avoid the obvious culprits such as mirrors! People wearing glasses can be a real challenge with a flash but, if you ask them to push the glasses down their nose a little bit, and to tilt them downwards, there will no longer be a direct surface for the flash to reflect into. (This is presuming that they won't take them off in the first place!)
Falloff. Compact camera flashes and pop-up flashes on DSLRs suffer from "falloff," which is where the flash is strongest in the middle of the image, but falls off as it gets to the corners. In addition, many flashes get weaker the farther away they are from the camera. (This occurs because of the flash's guide number, which relates to the number of feet or meters that it can cover). The solution is to always try to keep people in the center of the image and to photograph groups in a straight line, so as to keep the light as even as possible over all subjects.
Use ambient light. Sometimes you need flash, and there's no choice about it! But, if there's any ambient light available, try to use that in conjunction with the flash to add depth and warmth to an image and to cut down on harsh shadows. Position your subject in whatever ambient light there is, and then use the flash to add extra light.
Bounce. Unfortunately, this only applies if you are using an independent speedlight on your DSLR. One of the most compelling reasons to invest in a flashgun is the ability to bounce your flash. This means that you can move away from harsh direct flash, and angle your flashgun so that the light is "bounced" onto the subject. This is usually done by angling the flashgun head so that it hits the ceiling and the light is then directed down onto the subject.
MY THOUGHTS
There was a time i wanted those sophisticated cameras. I've changed my minds. I just want to take a picture of whatever. If it turns out right, I'd be happy. If it doesn't, then I'll take another picture if I can. I guess I can be classified as a non-enthusiast.
How to Get the Best Out of Your Flash
By Jo Plumridge, About.com Contributing Writer
Whether you're using a compact camera with a built in flash, a DSLR's integrated pop-up flash, or a dedicated speedlight on your DSLR camera, there are tips that you can use to make sure your flash photography is as good as it can be.
Remember, flash isn't always necessary! Learning about aperture, shutter speed, and ISO will enable you to take shots using natural light far more effectively.
Now read on for my top flash photography tips.
Recharging and batteries. Using a flash of any kind can really drain the batteries, so it's always a good idea to carry spares and to keep them fully charged. Different flashes take a different amount of time to recharge. This is called the recycle time. It's dependent on several factors -- such as, how good the batteries are and how much of the flash was discharged in the previous shot (for instance, if you are only shooting at a quarter power, the flash will recycle far more quickly). It's useful to know how quickly your flash recharges so that you'll know how quickly you can take another photograph.
Reflective surfaces. It sounds simple, but avoiding reflective surfaces when using flash can sometimes be a challenge! It needs to be done because, if you shoot the flash into anything reflective, you'll end up with a big blob of light on the image where the flash has reflected back to the camera. So avoid the obvious culprits such as mirrors! People wearing glasses can be a real challenge with a flash but, if you ask them to push the glasses down their nose a little bit, and to tilt them downwards, there will no longer be a direct surface for the flash to reflect into. (This is presuming that they won't take them off in the first place!)
Falloff. Compact camera flashes and pop-up flashes on DSLRs suffer from "falloff," which is where the flash is strongest in the middle of the image, but falls off as it gets to the corners. In addition, many flashes get weaker the farther away they are from the camera. (This occurs because of the flash's guide number, which relates to the number of feet or meters that it can cover). The solution is to always try to keep people in the center of the image and to photograph groups in a straight line, so as to keep the light as even as possible over all subjects.
Use ambient light. Sometimes you need flash, and there's no choice about it! But, if there's any ambient light available, try to use that in conjunction with the flash to add depth and warmth to an image and to cut down on harsh shadows. Position your subject in whatever ambient light there is, and then use the flash to add extra light.
Bounce. Unfortunately, this only applies if you are using an independent speedlight on your DSLR. One of the most compelling reasons to invest in a flashgun is the ability to bounce your flash. This means that you can move away from harsh direct flash, and angle your flashgun so that the light is "bounced" onto the subject. This is usually done by angling the flashgun head so that it hits the ceiling and the light is then directed down onto the subject.
MY THOUGHTS
There was a time i wanted those sophisticated cameras. I've changed my minds. I just want to take a picture of whatever. If it turns out right, I'd be happy. If it doesn't, then I'll take another picture if I can. I guess I can be classified as a non-enthusiast.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
WHITE iPHONE THICKER THAN BLACK MODEL?
White iPhone Thicker Than Black Model...Or Is It?
By Liane Cassavoy, About.com Guide May 1, 2011
http://cellphones.about.com/b/2011/05/01/white-iphone-thicker-than-black-model-or-is-it.htm?nl=1
The long-awaited white version of the iPhone 4 made its debut last week. And, right out of the gate, eagle-eyed observers noted that the phone was slightly thicker than its ultra-slim sibling.
The added thickness -- .2mm, according to TiPb, an iPhone, iPad, and iPod blog -- is barely noticeable. But when the two phones are held side by side, as in this picture posted on CNET.com, the ever-so-slight difference is clear.
But not apparently to Phil Shiller, Apple's Senior Vice President of Product Marketing. He responded to a tweet sent his way by a reader of 9to5Mac.com, asking for confirmation of the size discrepancy between the two phones. Shiller's response, sent via a private direct message that has since been made public, reads, "It is not thicker, don't believe all the junk that you read."
Despite Shiller's response, the difference in size between the two phones seems clear. At least to this untrained eye.
MY THOUGHTS
It does look a little thicker.
By Liane Cassavoy, About.com Guide May 1, 2011
http://cellphones.about.com/b/2011/05/01/white-iphone-thicker-than-black-model-or-is-it.htm?nl=1
The long-awaited white version of the iPhone 4 made its debut last week. And, right out of the gate, eagle-eyed observers noted that the phone was slightly thicker than its ultra-slim sibling.
The added thickness -- .2mm, according to TiPb, an iPhone, iPad, and iPod blog -- is barely noticeable. But when the two phones are held side by side, as in this picture posted on CNET.com, the ever-so-slight difference is clear.
But not apparently to Phil Shiller, Apple's Senior Vice President of Product Marketing. He responded to a tweet sent his way by a reader of 9to5Mac.com, asking for confirmation of the size discrepancy between the two phones. Shiller's response, sent via a private direct message that has since been made public, reads, "It is not thicker, don't believe all the junk that you read."
Despite Shiller's response, the difference in size between the two phones seems clear. At least to this untrained eye.
MY THOUGHTS
It does look a little thicker.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Wide-Angle Conversion Lenses
Troubleshoot Wide-Angle Conversion Lenses
By Kyle Schurman, About.com Guide
With some cameras, usually fixed-lens or DSLR models, you have the option of adding conversion lenses to give your camera's lens additional wide-angle or telephoto capabilities. The conversion lens attaches over the top of the existing lens. Use these tips to troubleshoot any problems you may be having with wide-angle conversion lenses.
Be certain the wide-angle conversion lens is made for your camera. Because the lens housing for each model of camera is different, conversion lenses must be made to fit particular models. If the conversion lens doesn't fit the original lens perfectly, you may have problems achieving the results you want.
With some types of conversion lenses, especially those labeled as "fish eye" lenses, you may need to change the settings on your camera to properly compensate for the extreme wide-angle look of a fish eye lens. If such settings are required for your camera, the user guide included with the conversion lens should mention it. You also may want to check the camera's user guide for tips on which menu settings you should use with a wide-angle conversion lens.
If you're having problems using the viewfinder to accurately frame your photos with the wide-angle conversion lens attached, try using the LCD to frame all of the photos. A wide-angle conversion lens may distort how the viewfinder works.
Don't try zooming in on a subject with the wide-angle conversion lens attached. The camera probably won't be able to correctly frame the photo or focus on the subject if both the zoom lens and conversion lens are in use. Some cameras disable the optical zoom with a wide-angle conversion lens attached; just be sure you don't activate the digital zoom feature, either.
The camera's flash also might not work properly with a wide-angle conversion lens attached. If you're having problems with achieving proper exposure from the flash with the conversion lens attached, try turning off the flash. Some cameras will disable the flash entirely when you're using a wide-angle conversion lens.
Because of the way the conversion lens attaches to the original lens, you may see a ghosting effect if shooting a scene with a bright light nearby. There is no way to avoid this effect, other than removing the wide-angle conversion lens
Finally, be sure to clean the original lens before attaching the wide-angle conversion lens. If the original lens is dirty, it won't matter how clean the conversion lens is.
MY THOUGHTS
Wide angle pictures would look like these:
photos from digital-photography-school.com
By Kyle Schurman, About.com Guide
With some cameras, usually fixed-lens or DSLR models, you have the option of adding conversion lenses to give your camera's lens additional wide-angle or telephoto capabilities. The conversion lens attaches over the top of the existing lens. Use these tips to troubleshoot any problems you may be having with wide-angle conversion lenses.
Be certain the wide-angle conversion lens is made for your camera. Because the lens housing for each model of camera is different, conversion lenses must be made to fit particular models. If the conversion lens doesn't fit the original lens perfectly, you may have problems achieving the results you want.
With some types of conversion lenses, especially those labeled as "fish eye" lenses, you may need to change the settings on your camera to properly compensate for the extreme wide-angle look of a fish eye lens. If such settings are required for your camera, the user guide included with the conversion lens should mention it. You also may want to check the camera's user guide for tips on which menu settings you should use with a wide-angle conversion lens.
If you're having problems using the viewfinder to accurately frame your photos with the wide-angle conversion lens attached, try using the LCD to frame all of the photos. A wide-angle conversion lens may distort how the viewfinder works.
Don't try zooming in on a subject with the wide-angle conversion lens attached. The camera probably won't be able to correctly frame the photo or focus on the subject if both the zoom lens and conversion lens are in use. Some cameras disable the optical zoom with a wide-angle conversion lens attached; just be sure you don't activate the digital zoom feature, either.
The camera's flash also might not work properly with a wide-angle conversion lens attached. If you're having problems with achieving proper exposure from the flash with the conversion lens attached, try turning off the flash. Some cameras will disable the flash entirely when you're using a wide-angle conversion lens.
Because of the way the conversion lens attaches to the original lens, you may see a ghosting effect if shooting a scene with a bright light nearby. There is no way to avoid this effect, other than removing the wide-angle conversion lens
Finally, be sure to clean the original lens before attaching the wide-angle conversion lens. If the original lens is dirty, it won't matter how clean the conversion lens is.
MY THOUGHTS
Wide angle pictures would look like these:
photos from digital-photography-school.com
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